Berluti’s creative director, Kris Van Assche is leaving the luxury menswear brand and his last collection was the Autumn/Winter 2021 that was presented on April 8.
Van Assche joined the LVMH-owned brand in 2018, during a time when the French conglomerate is shifting towards a more casual, streetwear-influenced style. This move saw the appointment of Virgil Abloh as Louis Vuitton’s men’s artistic director and Kim Jones as the artistic director for Dior.
At Berluti, Van Assche succeeded Haider Ackermann and oversaw the ready-to-wear and the house’s signature leather goods. During Van Assche’s tenure, he paid homage to the brand’s leatherworking heritage, especially its patina-laden shoes, with leather suits, footwear and accessories that are hand-painted or stitched. He has also introduced a new signature canvas for travel bags and personal accessories.
Collaborations are also a key feature at Berluti under Van Assche, just like his fellow peers in Dior and Louis Vuttion. Bringing in artists inject vibrancy through the use of zesty colours seen in his Spring/Summer 2021 collection, the designs also leaned towards a more casual street style and these new elements helped to attract a younger audience to Berluti. Van Assche’s mindful tailoring is a favourite amongst musicians and celebrities, who made the luxury brand a staple during red carpet events.
“In order to maintain our commitment to both savoir-faire and innovation we have decided to let Berluti lead its own rhythm and give freedom to its presentation schedule,” said Antoine Arnault, CEO of Berluti in a statement that also thanked Van Assche. “He has brought his own vision to Berluti, particularly by integrating new codes into its signatures.”
As for what’s next installed for the Belgian designer, there is no word yet but he mentioned there will be “some projects” left to be completed for the brand in the upcoming weeks.